Day 19

Treated myself last night to a good feed at a trucker's roadside cafe. Mashed potatoes, chicken, vegetables, gravy, bread and a big glass of milk! It was comfort food that I recognised ... only danger is that I might have a scary dream. Very heavy dew last night. Slept in the corner of a long grass field ... not the best spot but it does. As I moved up the road I noticed a lovely tended lawn around a big shed ... oh! missed that one! Back on track on Route 2 ... no hard shoulder, so have to be alert ... there are a few lakes around that look inviting but when you get up close they look stagnant to me. Finally hit on a beautiful picnic spot beside the road with a clean pond. I have a shave, a good washup and even manage to wash a few clothes. Feel good now and stop off in the tiny village of Farmington ... it's going to be hot today so I'll nurse myself and will be happy to clock up 60 miles today. Met a fellow cyclist, Charlie Rump. He's from Fort Madison and has noticed me several times on the road ... he stopped for a chat and offered help. He suggested I make a little detour on J40 ... a more scenic and quieter road that still takes me west. Thanks Charlie, I'll just do that.


Main St. Bonaparte


A few miles further on the heat is beginning to get to me so I stop for a siesta under a big shady tree in Bentonsport. After some time a truck pulls up and this young fellow, Chris Bennett introduces himself and invites me into his 200 year old house for a drink of cool orange. Lovely ... his father is a sculptor and works in bronze or wood or whatever. They live in an artist community. Temperature well up in the 90sF and I should be pushing on but there is so much to see here. The librarian Michael Millar in the town of Keosauqua has been very helpful and informative. This southern part of Iowa is quite hilly with lots of shrubbery and trees. The River Des Moines carves its way through the landscape and adds interest to the area. It's getting late on now and I've been talking to lots of interesting people but the best part is still to come. I'm on the J40 route, the start of the Mormon Trail, when I notice horse drawn farm machinery being hauled up the road ... there are a few Amish folk in this region and I speed up in the hope of catching what i think is one. Sure enough I overtake and start chatting to Delamar Wetter, a character straight out of the 19th century ... He pulls over to the side and we talk for about 15 minutes ... is this real? Here I am from Cushendall having a real conversation out in the long prairie with an Amish man! Woah! He asks ME questions about my trip and shows an interest in what I'm doing ... I noticed he has a pair of designer sunglasses perched on top of his straw hat? He's not a young man but has a natural long beard ... but he must shave his upper lip and around his mouth because it's clear of any facial hair. Delamar is a gentleman and invites me up to his home for ... "a drink of water" ... that's what he said, honest! I was sorely tempted to accept the invitation but felt that he was fulfilling a duty to a weary traveller ... I declined the offer but thanked him nevertheless, making an excuse that I had a schedule to keep ... I sensed he was relieved. Did I do the right thing, I wonder? I really do feel it was a privilege to talk to a real working Amish person coming home from a day's work in the fields. Oh! the machinery was very old but automatically rolls up hay into big bales. The horses were a couple of Belgian shires ... they looked very powerful. Some people have been making enquiries about the state of my backside. Well ... I have a leather Brooks saddle that is well worn in, and supports my pelvic bones admirably ... I also apply a generous daily dose of Vaseline on all tender areas to ensure that I don't chafe! Now ... does that answer your question? This has been a wonderful day ... and a bit of a worthwhile diversion. Managed 53 miles ... should have done more but there's always tomorrow.